Collarless Jacket with Cuffed Sleeves

Name: Collarless Jacket with Cuffed Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4108
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4108

A women's short, collarless lined jacket with a horizontal seam above the hem joining a double-layer lower band, darts on the front and back, a single button with a hanging bias loop, and long sleeves with deep folded cuffs. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Collarless Jacket with Cuffed Sleeves

When To Wear

Over blouses and dresses at the office.
With trousers or a straight skirt in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by front and back darts.

Length: Short, ending at the high hip.

Neckline: Round, collarless; the front edges curve away from each other at the neck and at the hem.

Closure: One button with a bias-cut hanging loop on the right front, at the level of the lower band seam; the fronts meet edge to edge.

Front: Upper front with a dart, joined to a lower band cut double and faced together with the lining.

Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves with deep cuffs folded lengthwise and interfaced.

Back: Centre back seam through the upper back and lower band; back darts.

Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, sewn to front facings and a back neck facing; the sleeve lining is attached to the inner edge of the cuff, and the jacket is turned through an opening in the sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Bagged lining with facings, a double lower band, sewn-on cuffs finished with the lining and a hand-made bias loop.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, cuffs)
1 button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 4 pieces
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing, cuff.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, and cuffs.
Stitch darts on the front and back. Press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back. Stitch the center seam and side seams on the lower parts of the jacket. Attach the lower parts to the front and back. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and stitch the short sides. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, aligning the notch with the cuff seam. Set the sleeve into the armhole.
Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and long enough to equal the button diameter plus 2 cm. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out. Secure the loop on the right front at the level of the lower attachment seam.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch darts. Stitch side and shoulder seams. Set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam.
Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facing and back neckline facing. Attach the front facing and back neckline facing to the jacket lining. Press seam allowances towards the lining. Stitch the center and side seams of the lower parts. Attach the lower parts to the lining. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and lower edge. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lining to the inner edge of the cuff. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed. Topstitch along the cuff attachment seam.
Sew on the button.