Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Silk fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: lining fabric; invisible zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention! Markings on the patterns are given on the right side. Attention! The lining pieces for the upper back are cut according to the main fabric patterns.
- From main fabric:
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Central back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Belt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Lining for lower front part – 1 piece
- Lining for lower back part – 2 pieces
- Lining for central back part – 2 pieces
- Lining for side back part – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half and stitch along the long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out and press.
- Mark and stitch the pleats on the upper front part. Stitch the center front seam. Press the seam allowances. Form pleats on the lower front part. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together. Press the seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back. Press the seam allowances towards the center. Form pleats on the lower back part. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together. Press the seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the main fabric, inserting the belt into the side seam. Press the seam allowances towards the back. Stitch the center back seam from the mark downwards. Press the seam allowances open.
- On the upper lining of the front, form pleats according to the markings and secure along the lower edge. Stitch the lining seams similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving a technical opening in the left side seam for subsequent turning.
- Insert the zipper into the center back seam.
- Place the dress with the lining right sides together, aligning the neckline edges. Before reaching 5 mm from the edges of the invisible zipper, fold back the lining and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the seam allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the lining. Finish the neckline edge. Clip the seam at the curves, turn the pieces right side out and press. Topstitch the seam allowances to the lining. Attach the lining to the zipper tape.
- Finish the armhole with the lining in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Clip the seam allowances at the curves and turn right side out.
- Along the lower edge of the main fabric, make a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the main fabric to the lining. Turn the dress through the opening in the side seam. Secure the main fabric to the lining with hand stitches along the waistline.
- Put the dress on a mannequin or figure and secure the main fabric and lining with pins, creating fullness. Make short machine stitches to secure at the pin locations. Tie the belt at the back.
