Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: faux leather. Also needed: 1 separating ZIPPER; LINING fabric; HOOK and EYE.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Overlap – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Left collar – 2 pieces
- Right collar – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: back pieces from lining are cut with the width of the back neckline facing subtracted.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the left and right collar pieces, press allowances open. Attach the collar stand to the collar, press allowances towards the stand and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Fold collars right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners, turn piece right side out. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the edge.
- Attach the left side of the ZIPPER to the edge of the center front panel, teeth pointing away from the edge. Fold the center front panels right sides together and stitch the neckline edge, front edge, and bottom edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners, turn piece right side out. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the front edge and neckline.
- Fold the overlap pieces right sides together and stitch the front edge, inserting the HOOK. Clip allowances at curves, turn piece right side out. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the front edge.
- Place the overlap on the right side front panel and stitch. Attach the right side of the ZIPPER to the allowance, teeth pointing away from the edge. Clip the allowance at the upper mark, fold the overlap onto the zipper and topstitch the allowance to the side front panel 0.2 cm from the attachment seam.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back.
- Attach the collar to the neckline: from the edge of the overlap piece to the left shoulder seam, only the lower collar, then clip the collar allowance and attach both collars. On the overlap section, press the upper collar allowance to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam. Clip the allowance at the princess seam.
- Attach the center front panel to the side panel, inserting the EYE, press allowances towards the side seam and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the elbow and front sleeve seams, press allowances towards the upper sleeve and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Press up the sleeve hem. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches.
- On the LINING pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press LINING allowances. Attach the back neckline facing to the back LINING.
- Place the LINING on the right side of the front panel, right side down, attach to the princess seams and attach the upper collar to the neckline of the facing. Turn the garment right side out, smooth out seams. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
- Mark and press the bottom of the jacket. Finish the sleeve hem and garment bottom with LINING. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the bottom of the garment and sleeves.
