Fitted Stand Collar Zipper Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: faux leather. Also needed: fusible interfacing; 1 separating zipper; lining fabric.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Pocket facing – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve insert – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces

ATTENTION: front and back lining pieces are cut without considering the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively. FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, collar stands, back neckline facing, pocket facings. ATTENTION: before fusing faux leather pieces, it is necessary to test on a scrap piece.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the front facing, collar stands, back neckline facing, and pocket facings with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the yoke to the back, clipping the corner. Press seam allowances towards the yoke, topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
3. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center, topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
4. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center, topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
5. Fold the front pieces right sides together and align the edges, measuring the length of the front edges. Stitch the separating zipper to the edge of the front. Fold the edges of the front at the zipper area and press.
6. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge and the neckline area of the front for 2-3 cm. Stitching is done from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front edge. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams. Topstitch along the front edge at a distance of 0.5 cm.
7. Mark the pocket placement. Fuse the pocket opening with a lengthwise grain strip. Fold the pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for stitching. Mark auxiliary lines on the front parallel to the pocket opening for stitching the pocket facings. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitching stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, smooth the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush with each other. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the small pocket bag into the seam of the lower facing, trim and stitch the pocket bag. Topstitch around the perimeter of the pocket at 0.2 cm.
8. Stitch the yoke to the front, press seam allowances towards the yoke, topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the side seams. Stitch the upper collar stand into the neckline of the front and back, press seam allowances open.
9. Carefully clip the seam allowance of the outer side of the sleeve insert at the curve in several places and press to the wrong side. Topstitch the insert to the upper sleeve.
10. Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches.
11. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facing and neckline facing. Stitch the lower collar stand into the neckline, press seam allowances open. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing.
12. Place the front facing with lining on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the front neckline and collar stand. Clip seam allowances at curves. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams. Topstitch along the neckline from the center to the collar stand and along the edge of the collar stand at a distance of 0.2 cm.
13. Mark and press the bottom of the jacket. Stitch the sleeve hem and garment bottom with lining. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the bottom of the garment and sleeves.