Button-Front Collared Blouse
A women's button-front blouse with a round-cornered collar on a stand, a high seam under the bust with the upper front gathered into it, a back yoke, and short puff sleeves with elastic at the hem.
When To Wear
- Office and everyday wear in spring and summer, with skirts or trousers.
- Under a pinafore dress or a sleeveless jacket.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by vertical seams on the lower front and darts on the back.
Length: Hip length, with a slightly curved hem.
Collar: Collar with rounded ends on a separate stand.
Front: Upper front gathered between notches into a horizontal seam under the bust; lower front in centre and side panels.
Closure: Separate placket folded in half and interfaced; buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap. The hem is turned twice by 1 cm to form a casing for 0.5 cm elastic, cut to the upper arm circumference minus 1 cm.
Back: Back yoke, centre back seam and two darts pressed towards the centre.
Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, a placket, gathering into a seam, and puff sleeves with an elastic casing.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabric of natural or blended fibres (cotton, viscose, polyester), preferably with added elastane.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, plackets)
- 9 buttons
- Elastic, 0.5 cm wide
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm, sleeve hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back center - 2 pieces
- Front upper - 2 pieces
- Front lower side - 2 pieces
- Front lower center - 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the plackets, upper collar, and inner collar stand with fusible interfacing.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
- Stitch the pieces of the lower front. Overlock the seam and press towards the center front.
- Along the lower edge of the upper front, between the notches, make a gathering stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together. Overlock the seam and press downwards.
- Press the plackets in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer edge of the placket to the front. Press the seam towards the placket. Fold the inner edge of the placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press. Attach the yoke to the back. Overlock the seam and press upwards.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overlock the seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand, and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Stitch and overlock the sleeve edges. Double fold the sleeve hem by 1 cm and topstitch, leaving an opening for inserting elastic. Insert the elastic. The length of the elastic is equal to the upper arm circumference minus 1 cm. Along the sleeve cap, make a gathering stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overlock the seam and press towards the sleeve.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left - sew on buttons.
