Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: silk, well-draping fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interlining; elastic tape; elastic thread; 5 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm, hem allowances for the bottom of the garment - 2 cm, sleeve hem - 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Front bodice – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- inner collar stand
- inner plackets
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse the collar stand and plackets.
- Stitch the darts on the back and front bodice pieces. Press bust darts upwards, waist darts towards the center of the piece.
- Stitch the center back seam. Press allowances to the left side and overlock.
- Lay and secure the pleats on the front half according to the markings. Place the pocket bag on the front half and stitch around the pocket opening. Clip allowances at curves, turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, topstitch allowances to the pocket bag with a 0.1 cm seam and press.
- Place the front half on the side panel according to the markings. Stitch the pocket bag to the side panel, overlock allowances. Secure the pocket bag to the front half along the upper and side edges.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, press allowances and overlock. Attach the front bodice pieces to the front halves, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Fold the placket pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn the placket to the right side, press. Fold the plackets with the front bodice and stitch precisely to the corner at the bottom. Clip allowances at the corner, press towards the front bodice and overlock. Turn the plackets to the right side, tuck the lower edges of the plackets inwards. Stitch across the plackets at the base of the corner.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the inseams, press allowances towards the back half and overlock.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and side edges. Clip allowances, turn the collar stand to the right side, press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the open longitudinal edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch and overlock the sleeve edge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the trousers and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch, leaving openings for elastic. Insert elastic.
- On the right placket, overcast buttonholes; on the left placket, sew on buttons.
- Along the waistline, stitch using elastic thread.
