Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; invisible zipper; 3 hooks and eyes.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom and top edge allowance for the front insert – 3 cm; slit allowance – 6 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Central upper front part – 2 pieces
- Side upper front part – 2 pieces
- Front insert - 1 piece
- Back sleeve - 4 pieces
- Front sleeve - 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Belt - 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Upper skirt part - 1 piece
- Middle skirt part - 1 piece
- Middle skirt part_2 - 1 piece
- Lower skirt part - 1 piece
- Upper skirt part facing - 1 piece
- Middle skirt part facing - 1 piece
- Middle skirt part_2 facing - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Belt lining - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Upper skirt part facing - 1 piece
- Middle skirt part facing - 1 piece
- Middle skirt part_2 facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the front facings and skirt facings with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch upper and lower back parts. Press seam upwards and overcast.
- On the left lower back part, along the vertical slit edge, cut off 5 cm. On both lower back pieces, reinforce the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper from the top edge to the notch.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front part, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Place front facings with front piece right sides together and stitch the edge of the central front part. Clip allowances at curves, turn front facings to the wrong side. Press the top edge of the front insert to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm and topstitch. Place front facings on the insert right sides together from the mark to the lower edge and secure. Overcast the outer edge of the front facing and topstitch it to the front piece in the princess seam.
- Place the upper skirt part with its facing right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to the wrong side. Place the middle skirt part with the upper skirt part facing right sides together and stitch. Press allowances upwards and overcast. Topstitch the facing to the skirt in the seam joining the facing and the middle skirt part.
- On middle skirt part_2, create and secure pleats according to markings (depths directed upwards). Place middle skirt part_2 with its facing right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to the wrong side. Place the lower skirt part with the middle skirt part_2 facing right sides together and stitch. Press allowances upwards and overcast. Topstitch the facing to the skirt in the seam joining the facing and the lower skirt part.
- Place the middle skirt part with its facing right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to the wrong side. Place middle skirt part_2 with the middle skirt part facing right sides together and stitch. Press allowances upwards and overcast. Topstitch the facing to the skirt in the seam joining the facing and middle skirt part_2.
- Stitch the upper front part to the skirt, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Overcast the inner edge of the back neckline facings. Place the dress with the facing right sides together, aligning the neckline edges. Before reaching 5 mm from the edges of the invisible zipper, fold back the facing and pin it to the top edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge, starting and ending the seam exactly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Stitch shoulder seams, inserting the front piece between the back piece and back facing. Press allowances, overcast. Turn facing to the wrong side.
- Stitch back and front sleeves in pairs, press allowances open. Place sleeves right sides together and stitch the outer and short sides. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out. Place sleeves with armholes and stitch. Press allowances and overcast.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Press the hem allowance of the dress bottom to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm and topstitch.
- On the belt piece, create pleats (depths directed upwards). Place the belt with its lining, inserting hooks into one of the short sides, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn belt right side out, sew up the opening, press. Sew eyes to the side opposite the hooks.
