CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces on fold
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front waistband – 1 piece
- Lower front – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, and serge. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the upper zipper mark, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the center seams of the collar, press seam allowances open. Place the center front pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline and collar. Clip the seam allowances, turn the pieces right side out. Shape and press the outer neckline edges. Secure the seam allowances of the upper front pieces along the princess seams.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the upper dress pieces. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, simultaneously attaching the collar to the back neckline. Serge seam allowances and press away from the center. Topstitch the seam allowance 0.5 cm from the seam along the back neckline.
- Stitch the side seams of the waistbands. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back. Attach the waistband to the upper dress, press seam allowances towards the waistband, and serge.
- Stitch the darts on the lower front and back pieces, press dart depths towards the center. Stitch the side seams of the lower dress pieces. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Attach the lower dress to the waistband. Press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the hem, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Serge the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Form and secure the inverted pleat at the sleeve cap. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Serge the allowance and press.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the lower armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
