Zip Front Active Jacket
This women's sewing pattern features a versatile zip-front jacket, distinguished by its sculpted seam lines, zippered pockets and comfortable stand collar.
When To Wear
This jacket is designed for comfort and style in various settings, making it an ideal choice for:
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Active Outdoors: Perfect for brisk walks, light hikes, or any activity requiring comfortable layering.
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Everyday Casual: An ideal layering piece for running errands or relaxed social outings.
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Travel & Commute: a practical and stylish choice for staying comfortable during journeys.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortably fitted silhouette, gently shaping the torso and extending to the hip.
Neckline & Collar: a neat stand collar provides coverage and a streamlined look.
Closure: a full-length separating front zipper allows for adjustable ventilation and easy wear.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves for comfortable movement.
Pockets: Two zippered pockets are set into the lower front, backed with knit pocket lining, for secure storage.
Seam Details: A front yoke joined with the collar stand, a V-shaped seam between the upper and lower front, front darts, side panels and a center back seam create a flattering, sculpted fit.
Hem: a clean, straight hem provides a modern finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise seam matching, zipper insertions, and collar construction.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight knit fabrics with some stretch for comfort and ease of movement:
- Medium-weight stretch knits
- Softshell fabrics
- Ponte di Roma
- Scuba knit
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 full-length separating zipper for the front closure
- 2 closed-end zippers for the pockets
- Knit fabric for pocket lining
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- From knit lining:
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side, serge.
- Stitch the darts on the front, press the dart intakes upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement on the Lower Front. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marked lines. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make slanted cuts. Press seam allowances to the wrong side. Place the zipper under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, sewing from the right side. Place the Pocket Lining right side down onto the wrong side of the Lower Front and baste along the center, upper, and side edges.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline of the front and back. Clip the seam allowances and press towards the Stand Collar.
- Stitch the Front Yoke with the Stand Collar to the Upper Front. Serge seam allowances and press towards the yoke.
- Stitch the Lower Front and Upper Front together. Serge seam allowances and press upwards.
- Stitch the Side to the front and back. Serge seam allowances and press towards the center back and center front respectively.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press the seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Stitch the inner Stand Collar to the neckline of the facings, clipping into the corner of the Center Front Facing. Clip the seam allowances and press towards the Stand Collar.
- Place the facings right side down onto the right side of the jacket and stitch the front edges, the upper edge of the Stand Collar and the lower corners, inserting the separating zipper between the layers. Clip seam allowances, trim corners, turn to the right side and press. Tack the Back Neckline Facing to the shoulder seams. Topstitch along the zipper.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
