Long Sleeve Ruched Bodice Sheath Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: medium stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing; three buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part - 4 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the back neckline facing with fusible interfacing. Fuse the front neckline edge.
2. Stitch the waist darts on the upper back part. Trim the depths with an overlock to 1 cm and press towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Serge the allowances and press upwards.
3. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the allowance and press to the left side.
4. Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Fold the back neckline facing and the back, right sides together, and stitch the neckline, starting and ending the stitch strictly at the shoulder seam line.
5. Stitch the center edges of the upper front part in pairs. Press the allowances open. Fold the pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the inner part of the bodice to the wrong side and press the edge. Align the outer and inner parts of the bodice along the bottom edges and armhole edges, then treat as one piece.
6. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Serge the allowances and press downwards.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the back facing. Press the allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and serge.
10. Serge the hem allowance of the dress and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. Along the center seam of the upper front part, stitch with a loosened upper thread, gather and secure the gathering. Sew decorative buttons onto the front.