Notched Lapel Double-Breasted Asymmetrical Vest

Cropped Double-Breasted Vest

Fabric Recommendations

Medium-weight suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibers for crisp shaping and stability:

• Wool suiting or tropical wool
• Cotton twill or gabardine
• Viscose or polyester suiting blends
• Lightweight denim for a casual twist

Lining: Lightweight viscose, silk, or polyester lining fabric.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing – for facings, lapels, and collar
• Lining fabric – for the full interior
• Two main buttons and one inner button
• Optional shoulder pads for a stronger silhouette

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Right Center Front – 1 piece
4. Left Center Front – 1 piece
5. Side Front – 2 pieces
6. Upper Collar – 1 piece
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
8. Left Front Center Facing – 1 piece
9. Right Front Center Facing – 1 piece
10. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use main patterns with the following modifications:

1. Center Back excluding width of Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Right Center Front excluding Right Front Center Facing – 1 piece
4. Left Center Front excluding Left Front Center Facing – 1 piece
5. Side Front – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use main patterns

1. Right Center Front – 1 piece
2. Left Center Front – 1 piece
3. Left Front Center Facing – 1 piece
4. Right Front Center Facing – 1 piece
5. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Assembly Instructions

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the required pieces.

Apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing) along the lapel fold line on the Right Center Front and Left Center Front.

2. Back

Stitch the center back seam of the Center Back, press the seam allowances open.

Stitch the princess seams of the Center Back and Side Back.

Press the seam allowances toward the center.

3. Front

Stitch the princess seams of the Right Center Front, Left Center Front, and Side Front.

Press the seam allowances toward the center.

4. Shoulder and Side Seams

Stitch the shoulder and side seams.

Press the seam allowances open.

5. Collar

Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch the collar ends and outer edge.

Begin and end stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line.

Trim seam allowances at the corners and clip at the marking.

Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.

6. Facings

Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing, Left Front Center Facing, and Right Front Center Facing.

7. Front Edges

Place the facings onto the Right Center Front and Left Center Front right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edges.

Stitch upward to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment.

8. Collar Attachment

Attach the Lower Collar to the neckline of the vest, and the Upper Collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and front facings.

Press the collar seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.

9. Hem

Press the lower edge of the vest to the wrong side.

10. Lining

Stitch the lining seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam.

Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.

Finish the armholes with the lining in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.

Clip seam allowances, turn right side out, and press.

Attach the lining to the lower edge of the vest.

11. Turning

Turn the vest right side out through the opening.

Sew the opening closed.

12. Closure

Work a buttonhole on the right front.

Work the inner buttonhole.

Sew on the buttons.