Notched Lapel Double-Breasted Asymmetrical Vest

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; 2 buttons; 1 inner button; shoulder pads. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Note: Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Side front – 2 pieces
• From fusible interlining:
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. On the front pieces, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interlining).
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
3. Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
5. Place upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press.
6. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and facings.
7. Place facings on the right side of the front pieces, right sides down, pin, and stitch along the edges. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment.
8. Attach the under collar to the vest neckline, and the upper collar to the back neckline facing and facing. Press collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
9. Press the bottom of the vest to the wrong side.
10. Stitch lining seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach lining to facings and back neckline facing. Stitch armholes with lining in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Clip allowances, turn right side out, and press. Attach lining to the bottom of the vest.
11. Turn the vest right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.
12. Make a buttonhole on the right front. Make an inner buttonhole. Sew on buttons.