Blazer Dress Asymmetric Pleated Hem

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 6 main buttons; 8 buttons for sleeve vents.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for garment bottom and sleeve bottom – 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). ATTENTION! Markings on patterns are on the right side.

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Lower back left – 1 piece
  • Lower back right – 1 piece
  • Side front right – 1 piece
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Center front left – 1 piece
  • Side front left – 1 piece
  • Lower front left – 1 piece
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front left – 2 pieces
  • Side front left – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces

  ATTENTION! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

• From fusible interlining:
  • Center front left – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. On the front piece, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interlining).
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch and press open the back princess seams.
3. Stitch the left and right lower back pieces, press allowances, serge. On the lower back piece, create and secure pleats. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards, serge.
4. Stitch and press open the right front princess seam.
5. Stitch and press open the left front princess seam. On the left lower front piece, create and secure pleats. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards, serge.
6. Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams.
7. Place upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at notch. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press.
8. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings. Place front facings on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the button placket area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. Position stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams.
9. Attach the under collar to the garment neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the upper and under sleeve pieces. Press open the sleeve elbow seam, make a notch, and press the vent. Apply a diagonal securing stitch along the sleeve vent. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap. Attach shoulder pads.
11. On lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Serge the bottom edge. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing (lining extends to the seam of the lower part attachment). Attach lining to the sleeve hem. Turn jacket right side out. Secure the bottom of the lining to the allowance of the lower part attachment.
12. Serge the bottom edge allowance, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
13. On the right front piece, make buttonholes, on the left front piece, sew on buttons. Sew buttons on sleeve vents.