Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 1 piece on fold
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Flounce – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the center back and center front. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seam of the side parts. Finish seam allowance and press towards the back.
- Finish the outer edge of the flounce, fold under and topstitch. Alternatively, you can finish the edges with bias binding or a French seam. For this, you will need to trim the seam allowance.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back simultaneously, inserting the flounce into the seam. Finish seam allowance and press towards the center.
- Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and finish.
- Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the prepared collar stand right side out and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, press seam allowances open. Finish the outer edge. Place the facing and front facing onto the right side of the garment and stitch the neckline and front edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the facings to the wrong side and press the seams. Stitch the facing to the shoulder seams.
- Finish the sleeve seams separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the top to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
- Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked seam line for attaching the cuff. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances and finish.
- Finish the hem of the garment, fold inwards and topstitch.
- Sew on buttons and make buttonholes.
