Tweed Lapel Collar Bomber Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 7 snaps.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From knit ribbing:
  • Waistband – 1 piece with fold
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the respective pieces.
2. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Attach the yoke to the back yoke, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overcast.
3. Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards. Attach the front yoke to the front, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overcast. Attach the front to the yoke, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overcast.
4. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Press the waistband piece lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the waistband to the bottom of the garment, stretching it slightly, and clipping the front at the corner.
6. Place the upper collar with the undercollar and stitch along the ends and outer edge up to the mark. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn out the collar, straighten and press.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Overcast the outer edge.
8. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the bottom edge up to the start of the waistband. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar insertion. Turn out the front facings, straighten the seams. Topstitch the front to the front facing along the waistband attachment seam.
9. Insert the undercollar into the garment neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Insert sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
11. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, stretching it slightly, press seam allowances and overcast.
12. On the right front, attach the upper parts of the snaps, on the left front – the lower parts. Tip: you can use ready-made knit waistbands and cuffs of the desired width.