Tweed Lapel Collar Bomber Jacket
A modern women's sewing pattern for a chic bomber jacket, distinguished by its sophisticated lapel collar and structured front yokes, offering a refined take on a classic silhouette.
When To Wear
This jacket is designed for versatile wear, perfect for:
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevating everyday ensembles with its tailored details and contemporary cut.
- Transitional Weather: Providing stylish warmth and easy layering during spring and autumn seasons.
- Business Casual Settings: a polished alternative to traditional blazers, suitable for a relaxed office environment or creative workplaces.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a contemporary bomber silhouette, designed to be slightly relaxed through the body and finish at the waist.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic notched lapel collar, adding a sophisticated, tailored touch uncommon for bomber jackets.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a clean button closure.
Sleeves: Full-length, set-in sleeves finished with comfortable, close-fitting ribbed cuffs.
Front Details: Distinctive front yokes extend from the shoulder and integrate into the lapel, with an additional horizontal seam across the chest. Horizontal welt pockets are integrated into the lower front panels.
Back: a clean back design featuring a subtle horizontal back yoke for shaping.
Hem: Finishes with a ribbed waistband, cinching the jacket to create the iconic bomber shape.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including collar construction, yoke assembly, set-in sleeves, button placket creation, and attachment of ribbed bands.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with some body for a structured yet comfortable drape:
- Dense dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (e.g., tweed, suiting, gabardine, heavier linen blends)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 7 buttons
- Ribbed knit fabric for waistband & cuffs
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From knit ribbing:
- Waistband – 1 piece with fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the respective pieces.
- Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overlock. Attach the yoke to the back yoke, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overlock.
- Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards. Attach the front yoke to the front, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overlock. Attach the front to the yoke, press seam allowances towards the yoke, overlock.
- Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Press the waistband piece lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the waistband to the bottom of the garment, stretching it slightly, and clipping the front at the corner.
- Place the upper collar with the undercollar and stitch along the ends and outer edge up to the mark. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn out the collar, straighten and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the bottom edge up to the start of the waistband. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar insertion. Turn out the front facings, straighten the seams. Topstitch the front to the front facing along the waistband attachment seam.
- Insert the undercollar into the garment neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Insert sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, stretching it slightly, press seam allowances and overlock.
- On the right front, attach the upper parts of the snaps, on the left front – the lower parts. Tip: you can use ready-made knit waistbands and cuffs of the desired width.
