Asymmetrical Zipper Peplum Moto Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 2 zippers; 1 separating zipper; 2 decorative snaps.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for garment bottom and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Lower back – 1 piece on fold
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Center front left – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Lower front left – 1 piece
  • Lower front right – 1 piece
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Right facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Lower back – 1 piece on fold
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Lower front right – 1 piece
  • Lower front left – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front left – 2 pieces
  • Center front right – 1 piece
  • Lower front right – 1 piece
  • Lower front left – 1 piece
  • Collar — 1 piece
  • Right facing — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing and the right front facing.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Attention! Markings on patterns are made on the right side!

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances downwards.
3. Stitch the right front princess seam, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower right front pieces, press allowances downwards. Stitch the upper and lower left front pieces, press allowances downwards.
4. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Stitch the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
5. Stitch the left front princess seam, inserting the left part of the zipper between the pieces. Press allowances away from the center. Stitch the right part of the zipper to the edge of the right front piece, with teeth facing away from the edge.
6. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press allowances open.
7. Set the upper collar into the garment neckline. Start and end the stitching strictly at the lapel start mark. Clip allowances at the mark, press open.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Set the undercollar into the neckline of the facing and back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching strictly at the lapel start mark. Clip allowances at the mark, press open.
9. Place the facings and garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, lapels, collar, and lower corner of the front edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn pieces to the right side, press.
10. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch the lining to the neckline facing and front facing. Turn the garment to the right side, straighten seams.
12. Mark and press up the garment hem. Stitch the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Stitch the technical opening closed.
13. Attach decorative snaps to the ends of the lapels.