Blouse with Ruffled Yoke and Keyhole Neckline

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: soft knit fabric with medium stretch from natural or blended fibers. You will also need: knit fusible interfacing; 1 button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1.0 cm; hem allowance for garment and sleeve 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Yoke – 2 pieces
  • Ruffle – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Tip: Cut knit fabric pieces with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

1. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the slit mark to the hem. Press seams open. Press the slit.
2. Serge the outer edge of the ruffle. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
3. Serge the shaped edge of the front.
4. Attach the ruffle to the yoke. Place the ruffle and yoke face down on the front and topstitch along the marked line. (The ruffle is positioned between the front and the yoke). Turn the yoke to the right side, press the seam. Stitch a decorative-securing stitch along the marked line on the right side of the yoke, joining the front and yoke.
5. Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing on the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press.
6. Serge the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing on the garment, face down. Slash the front and front facing along the marked line. Stitch the front slit, gradually tapering to nothing. Clip allowances and the corner on the front. Turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Join the upper corners of the front flush.
7. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the front neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the strip with the neckline edge on the right side and stitch, fold the strip to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the facing, press allowances towards the back and serge.
9. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set in sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
11. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for a rouleau loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the loop length. Insert the loop between the back and the facing, hand stitch. Sew on the button.
12. Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, fold to the wrong side and topstitch.