Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; decorative trim; 10 buttons; shoulder pads; sleeve head rolls.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Center front part — 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front part — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces and the allowances of the bottom edges of the garment and sleeves.
- Stitch shoulder and waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch darts on the front, trim dart depths to 1 cm, press towards the center.
- Place flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, inserting decorative trim. Trim allowances at curves, turn the flap right side out and press. Work a buttonhole on the flap, overcast the upper edge. Attach the flap to the front along the marked line (outer edge pointing towards the shoulder). Fold the flap down and topstitch along the attachment line.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the lower and upper sleeve parts, inserting decorative trim. Press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, make a notch and press the vent. Stitch a diagonal securing stitch along the sleeve vent. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Press the bottom of the jacket and sleeve hems to the wrong side, attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve hems. Smooth out the lining, secure it to the garment along the open edges and then treat as one piece.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and the center front part. Place the center front part and facing pieces right sides together, insert decorative trim between the pieces, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the piece right side out, straighten seams, press.
- Attach the outer part of the center front part and neckline facing to the main garment, inserting decorative trim into the seam, press allowances towards the center part. Press the allowance of the inner part of the center front part and facing to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer part.
- Work buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left front. Sew buttons on the sleeve vents and on the front under the flaps.
