Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress or suit fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 button.
CUTTER'S MUST
SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the back bottom – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Waistband - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Casing facing – 1 piece
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to facing pieces.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the slit mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the garment, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing on the right side of the garment and stitch the neckline. Clip seam allowances, turn facings to the wrong side and press the neckline edge. Hand stitch the facing to the center back seam, inserting the loop.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Place the binding on the right armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch, then fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
- Serge the back hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the casing facing in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Place it on the right side of the front, aligning the bottom edges, and stitch.
- Stitch the side seams up to the lower mark, inserting the back between the front and the casing facing. Press seam allowances towards the front and serge. Hand stitch the lower edge of the back to the inside of the facing. Stitch a decorative – securing stitch on the front along the marking, forming the casing.
- Fold the waistband piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and two short sides, leaving an opening. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the waistband right side out through the opening. Close the opening. Press the waistband, insert it into the casing and gather.
- Sew the button to the back.
