Double-Breasted Lapel Tunic Vest

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: denim fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 5 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Side panel – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand_2 – 2 pieces
  • Lapel – 4 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket facing – 4 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Side panel – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces

  Attention! Back, side panel, and front pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the back neckline facing and front facing.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Collar stand_2 – 1 piece
  • Lapel – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket facing – 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. On the wrong side of the back pieces, interface the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left back piece along the vent fold line. Align pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center back seam and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical edge of the vent. Clip the seam allowance corner of the vent on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
3. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
4. Cut the front along the pocket line. Stitch the dart, trim the depth to 1 cm and press towards the center. Topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or baste. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
5. Fold the flap pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim the seam allowances at the flap corners, turn right side out, topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.
6. Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket facings in half, wrong sides together, and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Attach the pocket lining to the flap. Attach the facings to the front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket facing. Attach the lower pocket lining to the seam of the lower facing attachment, trim and stitch the pocket lining.
7. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
8. Stitch collar stand and collar stand 2 pieces, press allowances open. Fold collar stands right sides together and stitch the ends of the collar stand up to the beginning of collar stand 2. Trim allowances at corners, turn collar stand right side out.
9. Fold lapel pieces right sides together, insert the collar stand between them and stitch the gorge line and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves, turn right side out, straighten. Attach lapel and collar stand to the neckline.
10. Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Place front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the front edges and neckline (lapels and collar stand are positioned between the pieces). Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn front facings to the wrong side and press.
11. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the right side seam for turning. Press allowances. Attach lining to front facings and facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams.
12. Face the bottom edge of the garment with lining. Turn right side out through the opening. Face the armholes in two steps: first the back armhole, then the front armhole. Stitch the technical opening closed.
13. Topstitch along the front edges with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the edge.
14. Work buttonholes on the front. Sew on buttons: main and hidden. Sew on decorative buttons.