Asymmetrical Zip Lapel Collar Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a contemporary jacket, defined by its asymmetrical zip closure and a stylish convertible lapel collar.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile piece, perfect for:
- Casual Chic: Perfect for elevating everyday outfits with a touch of modern style.
- Transitional Weather: An ideal layer for cooler mornings and evenings in spring or autumn.
- Smart-Casual Events: Suitable for relaxed gatherings, brunches, or daytime events where polished comfort is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, hip-length jacket with a clean, modern profile.
Neckline & Collar: Convertible lapel collar designed to be worn open or zipped higher.
Closure: Asymmetrical front closure with a full-length separable zipper.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves for a tailored fit.
Back: Features a center back seam and side back relief seams for shaping.
Hem: Straight hem finished with a distinct band.
Length: Finishes at hip length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as lapel construction, zipper insertion, relief seams, and lining assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured fabrics with some body for the best result:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Interfacing
- 1 separable zipper
- Lining fabric
Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: interfacing; 1 separating zipper; lining fabric.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 1 piece on fold
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Right placket – 1 piece
- Left placket – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 1 piece on fold
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
ATTENTION: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the right front princess seam, press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the side seams.
- Attach the upper side of the right placket to the bottom of the main jacket part. Attach the upper side of the left placket to the left front.
- Stitch the left front princess seam, inserting the zipper. The bottom of the zipper is located in the middle of the placket width. Press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the right part of the zipper to the edge of the right front placket, with teeth facing away from the edge. The bottom of the zipper is located in the middle of the placket width.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the neckline. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the darts on the sleeve. Trim the dart depths, press seam allowances open. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, press seam allowances towards the main part. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Attach the under collar to the neckline of the front facing and back neckline facing. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Press seam allowances open.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right side seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neckline facing, press the seam allowances. Fold the lining with the garment right sides together and stitch the bottom edge of the placket. Fold the placket up, enclosing the zipper. Stitch the front edges, lapels, collar, and bottom edge of the sleeve. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out. Secure the placket seam allowances together. Topstitch along the front edge 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the opening in the side seam closed.
