Western Yoke Gathered Blouse
Introducing a versatile women's blouse pattern featuring distinctive front and back yokes, gentle gathering, and classic shirting details for a relaxed yet polished silhouette.
When To Wear:
- Casual Daywear: Perfect for everyday wear, offering comfort and effortless style.
- Vacation & Resort Wear: Ideal for warm weather, paired with lightweight trousers or skirts.
- Transitional Styling: a sophisticated layering piece for changing seasons or a standalone statement.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Relaxed fit through the body, designed for comfort and ease.
Neckline & Collar: Large pointed collar that frames an open V-neckline; the front buttons below the V.
Front Yoke: Features a distinctive pointed Western-style front yoke with soft gathering underneath.
Closure: Full-length topstitched front placket with button closure.
Sleeves: Long sleeves with gathered sleeve caps, pleats at the wrist, a bias-bound slit and buttoned cuffs.
Back: a straight back yoke with gentle gathering below, adding volume and drape.
Hem: Straight hem, suitable for wearing tucked in or out.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in gathering, collar construction, placket and cuff assembly, and binding a sleeve slit.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose lightweight blouse fabrics that offer good drape and breathability:
- Blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (e.g. cotton lawn, chambray, viscose challis)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 8 buttons (front and cuffs)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Yoke (back yoke) – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to one Collar piece, two Placket pieces and the Cuffs.
- Along the upper edge of the back between the marks, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the Yoke to the Back, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the front, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the Front Yoke to the Front. Overlock seam allowances and press upwards. Attach the outer Placket to the Front. Clip seam allowances and press towards the placket.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn collar right side out and press.
- Set the collar into the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the inner Plackets. Press seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the inner Placket and facing on the right side of the front. Stitch the edge of the front opening and neckline. (The collar is between the pieces). Clip seam allowances, turn the placket to the wrong side and press. Secure pieces at shoulder seams. Topstitch along the seam where the outer placket was attached.
- Cut the sleeve slit along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length +4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press outer seam allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip. Form and secure pleats on the sleeve. Pleat depths are directed away from the opening. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock seam allowance and press towards the back.
- Fold each Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam where the outer cuff was attached.
- Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock seam allowance and press.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the front and cuffs. Sew buttons on the front and cuffs.
