Asymmetrical Peplum Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, tailored jacket featuring an asymmetrical wrap-style front, a decorative buckle strap at the side and a stylish double-layered peplum hem.
When To Wear
The sophisticated design and structured silhouette make this jacket suitable for:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or corporate events, offering a polished look.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Perfect for upscale social events, lunches, or cultural outings where a refined yet fashionable statement is desired.
- Elevated Everyday Style: a versatile piece to instantly dress up tailored trousers or a pencil skirt for a confident and modern ensemble.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, tailored jacket with a pronounced waistline and a flared double-layered peplum.
Neckline: a collarless round neckline with a deep, curved asymmetrical front opening, finished with facings.
Front Closure: The asymmetrical wrap-style front fastens with a hidden button on the inside; a decorative strap with a buckle is stitched into the left side seam at the waist.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length sleeves with a raised, softly puffed sleeve cap (separate upper sleeve section) and turned-up shaped cuffs.
Back: Fitted upper back with princess seams and a center back seam, joined at the waist to a flared double-layered peplum cut on the fold.
Hem: a distinctive double-layered peplum flares out from the waist, adding volume and a contemporary silhouette.
Length: Hip length, highlighting the waist.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with tailoring techniques, assembling complex curved seams, managing multiple layers, and working with interfacing and buckles.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured suiting fabrics that will hold the shape of the peplum and tailored lines:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- Decorative buckle
- 1 hidden button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm, hem allowance – 1.2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back 1 – 1 piece on fold
- Lower Back 2 – 1 piece on fold
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Right Front – 2 pieces
- Center Left Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front 1 – 2 pieces
- Lower Front 2 – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Right Front – 2 pieces
- Center Left Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Strap – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge.
- Stitch the side seams of the upper part of the garment (Side Front to Side Back), press allowances towards the back, serge. Stitch the side seams of the peplum layers (Lower Front 1 to Lower Back 1, Lower Front 2 to Lower Back 2), press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Serge the lower edges of the peplum layers, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Lay peplum layer 1 over peplum layer 2 and baste them together along the raw edges.
- Stitch the peplum to the upper part of the garment at the waist, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Right Front and Center Left Front to the Side Fronts), press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Serge the outer edges of the Back Neckline Facing and of the inner (second) Center Right Front and Center Left Front pieces (hereinafter, front facings). Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the front facings, press allowances open. Place the facings onto the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges, the neckline and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners, turn right side out. Stitch the front facings in the ditch of the front princess seams to secure them.
- Slash the sleeve at the top along the upper edge of the sleeve cap, stopping 0.5 cm short of the seam allowance on each side. Stitch the extension of the shoulder seam on the sleeve, press allowances open, serge. Stitch the Upper Sleeve (upper cap section) to the sleeve, gradually tapering the stitching to nothing, serge. Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, press allowances and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances, serge. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Stitch each Cuff into a ring, press allowances open. Fold the cuffs right sides together and stitch the shaped edge. Clip allowances, turn the cuff right side out, press. Stitch the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve from the wrong side, press allowances, serge. Turn the cuff up onto the sleeve.
- Fold the Strap lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the long edge and one short edge. Turn the strap right side out, press. Serge the open short edge. Thread the strap through the buckle and stitch. Place the strap on the left side seam with the serged short end (buckle pointing towards the back) and stitch it on. Fold the strap over onto the front and stitch along the side seam to secure.
- Make the inner buttonhole on the left front. Sew on the hidden button to correspond.
