Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing; invisible zipper; 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom — 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back piece - 2 pieces
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower back piece – 2 pieces
- Center front piece - 1 piece on fold
- Side front piece - 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front piece - 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press seam allowances towards the center, overcast. Attach the waistband to the upper back, press seam allowances towards the waistband, overcast. Form and secure pleats on the lower back (pleat depths directed towards the side seams). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Attach the waistband to the upper front, press seam allowances towards the waistband, overcast. Form and secure pleats on the lower front (pleat depths directed towards the side seams). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing on the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves and corners, turn pieces right side out, smooth, press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press outer seam allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
- Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, smooth, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the cuffs, overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew buttons onto the front waistband according to markings.
