Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back panel – 2 pieces
- Front panel – 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 4 pieces
- Front yoke outer – 1 piece
- Front yoke inner – 1 piece
- Facing – 4 pieces
- Pocket stay – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Front yoke inner – 1 piece
- Facing – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch the back yoke to the back panel, press seam allowances upwards. Overlock the center edges of the back panel separately on each piece. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket facings in half wrong sides together and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the facings. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening. Stitch the facings to the front panel. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening area on the side of the front panel. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Overlock the pocket stay around the perimeter. Place the pocket stay on the facings from the wrong side and topstitch into the seam of the facings.
- Lay and secure the diagonal pleats at the upper edge of the front skirt panel (depths directed towards the center). Stitch the outer front yoke to the front panel, press seam allowances upwards. Fold the front panel in half wrong sides together and stitch along the marked line. Unfold the panel, press the pleat to the left side.
- Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes, press seam allowances open. Overlock the bottom edge. Place the yoke and skirt right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Topstitch seam allowances to the yoke at a distance of 0.2 cm from the stitching line. Fold the yoke to the wrong side, press. Fold the center edges and sew to the zipper tape. Topstitch the yoke into the seam of the outer yoke.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
