Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper; trouser hook and bar; lining fabric; 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Fly facing – 1 piece
- Back pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Front pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Front pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Back pocket facing – 1 piece
- Front pocket facing – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Front pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Back pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Fly facing – 1 piece
- Back pocket flap – 1 piece
- Front pocket flap – 1 piece
- Back pocket facing – 1 piece
- Front pocket facing – 4 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Mark and stitch darts on the back halves of the trousers, press the dart depths towards the center.
- Fold flap pieces right sides together and stitch the side and bottom edges. Trim corner allowances, turn the flap right side out, straighten, press. Finish buttonholes.
- Mark the position of the back pocket. Fold the pocket facing in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attaching it. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attaching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facing. Stitch the pocket lining to the flap. Stitch the facing and flap to the front panel. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the facing and flap to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends so that the pressed fold of the facing meets the flap. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the free end of the pocket bag to the seam allowance of the facing attachment, press the pocket bag down, align, stitch and overcast the side edges.
- Mark the position of the pockets on the front halves of the trousers. Fold the pocket frames in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket frame for attaching it parallel to the fold. Place the frames on the front half, then place the lining pocket bag on top, aligning the marking lines, and stitch. Cut the front half between the stitching lines. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the frames and lining to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet each other. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the free edges of the facings to the lining. Place the main fabric pocket bag on top of the lining pocket bag, aligning the edges. Topstitch the pocket bag into the seam of the lower frame attachment, folding back the main piece. Stitch and overcast the outer edges of the pocket bags.
- Fold and stitch the pleats on the front halves along the marked line. Depths are directed towards the center. Secure the pleats at the upper edge.
- Overcast the center back edges on the back halves. Stitch the back center seam and press open.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated facing, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center seam. Overcast the front center edge and the fly edge.
- Stitch the center front seam of the front halves, starting the stitching at the edge of the integrated facing. Press the integrated zipper facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center front edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the integrated facing of the right half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right trouser half at 0.1 cm. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise, wrong side in, and overcast the longitudinal and short bottom edges. Stitch the fly shield to the zipper attachment seam of the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the trousers. From the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the integrated facing and the fly shield.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch the inseams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the lower edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong side in, and press. Stitch the waistband to the upper edge of the trousers, inserting the front flap on the left side above the pocket, and stitch the waistband corners. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the overcast edge into the waistband attachment seam.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Stitch the cuff from the wrong side to the bottom of the trousers, press allowances and overcast. Turn the cuff to the right side, secure along the fold to the main garment with blind stitches.
- Sew the hook and bar to the waistband.
- Sew buttons corresponding to the buttonholes on the flaps and on the waistband above the right front pleat.
