Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: knit fabric with a low degree of stretch, made from natural or blended fibers in contrasting or related colors. YOU ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back – 2 pieces
- Upper side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Upper center front – 1 piece on fold
- Upper side front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
- Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the lower edge, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center, serge. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners, turn the collar right side out, press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing right side to right side with the garment and stitch the neckline edge (the collar is positioned between the facing and the main garment). Clip allowances at curves, turn facings to the wrong side and press. Secure to shoulder seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half with right side out. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the sleeve and serge.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
