Fitted Jacket with Rounded Collar

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Underlap – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar – 2 pieces with fold
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

  ATTENTION: Back and front pieces from lining are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and underlap, respectively.

• From fusible interlining:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Underlap – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar – 1 piece with fold

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the edge and outer edge. Trim allowances, turn right side out, and press.
4. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
5. Stitch and press shoulder seams open. Attach the collar to the neckline of the front and back. Attach the straight section of the collar to the center front, creating arbitrary pleats.
6. Attach the front facing to the center front. Press allowances towards the center.
7. Stitch side seams. Press allowances open.
8. Stitch and press shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and underlaps open. Place the underlaps with the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner of the front edge. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam to the underlap. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams. Press the bottom of the garment.
9. Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the sleeve seam.
10. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
11. On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the underlaps and the back neckline facing.
12. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
13. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.