Sleeveless Wrap-Neck Midi Dress with Cut-On Collar
Introducing a sophisticated sleeveless midi dress pattern, distinguished by its elegant apache collar, fitted bodice, and a voluminous pleated skirt.
When To Wear
This versatile midi dress is perfect for various occasions, offering polished style for:
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Formal Business & Professional Settings: Its structured lapel and midi length offer a refined and authoritative presence.
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Special Occasions & Events: Ideal for luncheons, gallery openings, or semi-formal gatherings where understated elegance is key.
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Date Nights & Evening Wear: a sophisticated choice that balances classic charm with modern appeal.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a-line, with a tailored, fitted bodice that transitions into a full, gracefully pleated skirt.
Neckline & Collar: Features a deep wrap V-neckline with a collar cut in one with the upper front pieces and joined by a seam at the center back; the right front overlaps the left.
Closure: a concealed (invisible) zipper in the center back seam; a decorative button on the front waistband.
Sleeves: Sleeveless design, providing a clean and contemporary shoulder line.
Back: The collar continues around the back neckline; back darts, a center back seam with a concealed zipper, and inverted pleats on the skirt mirroring the front.
Waist: Defined waistline with front and back waistband insets that visually cinch the silhouette.
Length: Midi length skirt, falling elegantly below the knee.
Skirt: a voluminous A-line skirt with deep inverted pleats at the front and back, creating graceful movement and fullness.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precise sewing for dart construction, lapel and collar shaping, setting a concealed zipper, and accurate pleat formation.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for soft dress fabrics that offer beautiful drape and structure for the pleats:
- Soft dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interlining
- Concealed zipper
- 1 decorative button
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Back Waistband – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Front Waistband – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 1 piece on fold
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Back pieces and press them towards the center. Stitch the Back Waistband to the Upper Back, press the allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
- Form and secure the inverted pleats on the Lower Back. Stitch the upper back to the Lower Back, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the hem, press the allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper between the marks.
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Front pieces, press them towards the center, trim to 1 cm and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder seams, clipping the shoulder seam allowance on the front, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the center back seam of the collar (cut in one with the Upper Front), press the allowances open. Stitch the collar to the back neckline, press the allowances towards the collar.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings, clip at the corner and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar, press the allowances open. Stitch the collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, press the allowances towards the collar. Overlock the outer edge of the facings.
- Place the facings on the dress, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and the outer edge of the collar. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar to the right side, straighten seams, and press. Secure the collar attachment allowances together. Overlap the right front over the left and secure at the lower edge.
- Stitch the Front Waistband to the upper front, press the allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
- Form and secure the inverted pleats on the Lower Front. Stitch the upper front to the Lower Front, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the right side of the armhole, raw edges aligned, leaving tails, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seam allowances, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew the decorative button onto the Front Waistband.
