Blouse with Gathered Shoulders and Back Neck

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2.5 cm; allowance for back neckline edge and lower sleeve edge – 0 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece with fold
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the pieces.
2. Along the back neckline edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather, positioning it in the center of the piece. Bind the back neckline edge with bias tape.
3. Overcast the outer edge of the front neckline facings. Place the facing with the front and stitch the neckline edge. Start and end the stitch exactly at the marked seam line for joining with the back.
4. Along the front shoulder edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the shoulder seam, inserting the back between the front and the facing. Overcast the allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side.
5. Stitch the center front seam simultaneously with the center facing seam, laying out the pieces in a straight line. Press the allowances to the left side, overcast.
6. Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back, overcast. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press and overcast the allowances.
8. Make a slit on the sleeve. Cut bias tape for binding the sleeve slit, with a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm and a width of 5 cm. Press the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out. Lay out the sleeve along the slit line in a straight line, place the bias tape on the right side, aligning the edges, and stitch. The seam width along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch into the attaching seam.
9. Along the lower sleeve edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Bind the lower sleeve edge with bias tape, simultaneously finishing the ties.
10. Fold the bottom of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then by 1.5 cm and topstitch.