Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; elastic tape; fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). ATTENTION! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Middle sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Form and secure pleats on the back pieces. Stitch yokes to the back. Overcast seam allowances and press upwards. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch darts on the front. Press dart depths upwards.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collar pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn collar right side out, and press. Attach the outer collar to the neckline of the front and back. Fold the seam allowance of the inner collar inwards and topstitch it into the seam of the upper collar attachment.
- Stitch the upper and middle sleeve parts. Overcast seam allowance, press upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Attach the lower part to the sleeve. Overcast seam allowance and press upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the sleeve seam. Overcast seam allowance and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes. Overcast seam allowance and press.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Adjust the length of the elastic tape, insert it into the cuff, and attach the cuff to the sleeve. Overcast seam allowance.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment. Press seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
