Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse or dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 button; 1 decorative button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; allowance along the outer edges of the left and right front pieces – 1.2 cm; allowance for hemming the bottom of the garment – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 2 pieces
- Back - 1 piece with fold
- Front yoke - 1 piece
- Right front piece - 1 piece
- Left front piece - 1 piece
- Flap - 2 pieces
- Pocket facing - 2 pieces
- Pocket bag - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Flap – 1 piece
- Pocket facing - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces, press the fullness upwards.
- Overlock the outer and lower edges of the left and right front pieces. Press the allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch the side and lower edges. Clip the allowances, turn the flap right side out, straighten, press.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket facings in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket facing parallel to the fold for attaching it. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attaching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the width of the flap along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket facings. Attach the pocket lining to the flap. Attach the facings to the front piece. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the facings to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush with each other. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket facing. Attach the lower pocket lining to the seam of the lower facing attachment. Trim and stitch the pocket lining, overlock the allowances.
- On the right front piece, at the mark, turn the outer edge inwards. Lay the right front piece over the left and secure along the upper edges. Attach the yoke to the front piece, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the center edges of the back yokes, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Attach the back yokes to the back, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Place the binding along the neckline edge, right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Attach the loop to the left back yoke.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge, right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side seams (the back is longer than the front by the width of the lower allowance), press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the back, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew a button onto the right back yoke. Sew a button onto the right front piece.
