Straight Dress with Three-Quarter Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, invisible zipper, lining fabric.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Underlap – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface details with fusible interfacing. Interface pocket area.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Serge center back edges separately. Stitch center back seam from zipper mark to bottom. Press allowances open. Insert invisible zipper.
3. Mark pocket placement on the front. Press the welt lengthwise in half, right sides together. Stitch the ends of the welt. Trim allowances, turn the welt right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour of the welt 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inside of the welt. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening, direct the welt upwards. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the welt to the front along the side edges from the right side. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
4. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Press allowances open and serge. Topstitch along the seams on both sides 0.5 cm.
5. Stitch the front parts. Press allowances open and serge. Topstitch along the seam on both sides 0.5 cm.
6. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Serge allowances and press towards the back.
7. Stitch shoulder seams of facings. Serge allowances and press towards the back. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing right side down on the garment and stitch the neckline and opening. Clip allowances, trim corners, turn facings to the wrong side and press. Attach the center allowances of the facing to the zipper tape.
8. Stitch the sleeve seam. Serge allowance and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes. Serge allowance and press.
9. Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve. Press allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.