Fit and Flare Dress with Chiffon Sleeve Insets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Chiffon for sleeves. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 4 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Back sleeve part - 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve part - 2 pieces
  • Cuff - 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece on fold
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
• From chiffon:
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. On the front and back pieces, stitch pleats according to markings, press pleat depths open, and secure to the main garment with blind stitches.
3. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
4. Serge the outer edge of the neckline facings. Place the neckline facing and back piece right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Fold the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the lower part to the zipper tape.
5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams (the front shoulder seam is longer by the seam allowance width), press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
6. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends and ties up to the shoulder seam marks. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer side of the collar to the front neckline, fold under the seam allowance of the inner side and topstitch into the seam of the outer side.
7. Serge the outer edges of the front and back sleeve parts, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Along the lower edge of the front and back sleeve parts, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Along the sleeve cap of the chiffon sleeve, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Place the back sleeve part onto the chiffon sleeve, then the front sleeve part, secure along the edges, and treat as one piece.
8. Serge the inner sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the mark, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press seam allowances and serge.
9. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the cuff right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold under the seam allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the seam of the outer side.
10. Serge the hem allowance, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
11. Serge buttonholes on the cuffs. Sew on buttons.