Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; thin shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem and sleeve hem 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part — 2 pieces
- Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing. From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part — 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: center front part, front facing (excluding hood), back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline.
- Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam allowance open.
- Stitch the front princess seam. Press the seam allowances open. Attach the pocket bag to the upper front part. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked lines for the beginning and end of the pocket. Press the seam allowances upwards. Attach the pocket bag to the lower front part. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Attach the lower part to the front in two sections: from the front edge to the pocket and from the pocket to the side seam. Press the seam allowances open. Stitch the pocket bag. Press the seam allowances.
- Stitch the hood seam. Press the seam allowance open. Clip the seam allowances at the corner of the shoulder edge. Attach the hood to the back neckline. Stitch the shoulder seams of the coat. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the side seams of the coat. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the elbow seam open, press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set in the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap in the upper part. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing, clipping the seam allowance at the corner. Stitch the hood edge. Stitch the dart on the front lining. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing.
- Place the coat and lining right sides together, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch the lining along the front edge and hood. Attach the lining to the bottom of the coat. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Secure the lining to the main fabric at the waist seam of the front. Close the opening.
- Make a buttonhole and sew on a button.
