Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting or related colors. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the dress and sleeve hem, center edge of the flying panel, neckline of the left and right front parts – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical details). ATTENTION! ALL MARKINGS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE!
- From main fabric:
- Upper left back part - 1 piece
- Upper right back part - 1 piece
- Upper left front part - 1 piece
- Upper right front part - 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Lower left back part - 1 piece
- Lower right back part - 1 piece
- Lower front part - 1 piece
- Flying panel - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. Hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Reinforce facing pieces with fusible interfacing. Also reinforce the neckline edge of the upper front parts.
- Stitch the upper and lower right back parts, press seam allowances up and serge. Stitch the upper and lower left back parts, press seam allowances up and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom edge, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the dart on the front piece, press the depth upwards.
- Serge the neckline allowance of the upper left front part, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the left and right upper front parts, press seam allowances to the right part and serge, continuing serging up to the shoulder seam. Press the neckline allowance of the right front part to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold and secure pleats on the flying panel. Serge the center and bottom edges, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Place the flying panel on the lower front part and secure along the upper and side edges. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances up and serge.
- Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing on the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the facing, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press and serge seam allowances.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
