Shawl Collar Pleated Dress with Mock Double-Breasted Front

Name: Shawl Collar Pleated Dress with Mock Double-Breasted Front
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2504
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2504

A knee-length women's coat-style dress with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, a double-breasted front with four buttons, and inverted pleats set into the front and back princess seams below the waist. Invisible zip at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Shawl Collar Pleated Dress with Mock Double-Breasted Front

When To Wear

Office and business meetings, worn on its own with court shoes.
Daytime events and dinners in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped by front and back princess seams; below the waist the side panels widen into inverted pleats, so the skirt flares.

Length: To the knee.

Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, joined with a seam at the centre back and faced with the interfaced front facings and back neck facing.

Front: Double-breasted wrap: the right front overlaps the left along the centre lines and is topstitched along the front edge from a mark to the hem; four buttons in two pairs are sewn through both fronts.

Closure: Invisible zip in the centre back seam.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set in.

Back: Centre back seam with the zip, princess seams with inverted pleats below the waist.

Skirt: Inverted pleats stitched down at the waist level of each princess seam, front and back, with a clipped corner where the pleat begins.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hems of dress and sleeves turned up and topstitched. Unlined.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleats set into princess seams at a clipped corner, a shawl collar faced together with the fronts, and an invisible zip.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
Invisible zip
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Back - 2 pieces
Side back - 2 pieces
Front - 2 pieces
Side front - 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Clip the seam allowance at the corner of the back princess seam, overlock the horizontal edge. Overlock the lower edge of the side back. Fold and stitch the inverted pleats on the back pieces according to the markings. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overlock.
Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline edge to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
Clip the seam allowance at the corner of the front princess seam, overlock the horizontal edge. Overlock the lower edge of the side front. Fold and stitch the inverted pleats on the front pieces according to the markings. Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overlock.
Stitch shoulder seams, clipping the shoulder seam allowance on the front, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the collar seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the collar to the back neckline, press seam allowances towards the collar.
Stitch, clip at the corner, and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch the collar seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the collar to the facing neckline, press seam allowances open. Overlock the outer edge of the front facings and facing.
Place the front facings and facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and collar edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the collar right side out, straighten seams, and press. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances together. Overlap the right front over the left, aligning the center lines, and topstitch along the front edge from the mark to the bottom.
Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
Sew buttons according to markings, securing the right and left front pieces.