Double-Breasted Shawl Collar Flared Coat

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: coat fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; three large buttons; one hidden button; shoulder pads, sleeve heads. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the coat and sleeve hem 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: center front, back neckline facing, front facing.

ATTENTION: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. On the back, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam. Press the allowances open.
3. Stitch the dart on the center front. Cut the dart in half lengthwise and press open. Stitch the front princess seams. Press the allowances open.
4. Stitch and press open the side seams of the coat. Clip the allowance at the corner near the shoulder seam. Stitch the collar seam. Press the allowance open. Stitch the shoulder seams, simultaneously inserting the collar into the neckline.
5. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
6. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing, clipping the allowances at the corners. Stitch the collar seam on the front facings. Press the allowances open. Insert the collar into the neckline. Press the allowances open. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge and bottom. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Secure the allowances of the outer and inner collars together. Close the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
8. Work buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons to the left front. Work the inner buttonhole. Sew on the inner button.