Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 3 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket frame – 4 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces

  ATTENTION: the back piece from lining fabric is cut subtracting the width of the back neckline facing.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the back neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape. Fuse the allowances of the garment hem and sleeve hem.
2. Stitch darts on the back and front, press the dart depths towards the center.
3. On the wrong side of the back pieces, fuse the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left back piece along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center back seam and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical edge of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
4. Fold the flap pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Trim the corner allowances, turn the flap right side out, straighten, and press.
5. Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket welts in half, wrong sides together, and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket welt parallel to the welt fold for attaching it. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attaching it parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket welts. Attach the pocket lining to the flap. Attach the welts to the front. The ends of the stitches should stop exactly at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the welt attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the welts through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the welts so that the pressed folds of the welts meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket welt. Attach the lower pocket lining to the seam of the lower welt attachment, trim and stitch the pocket lining.
6. Fold the front facing with the front, right sides together, and stitch the lapel and front edge. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Clip the front facing allowance at the corner near the beginning of the lapel, fold the lapel onto the front along the roll line and secure along the upper edge.
7. Attach the yoke to the front (start/end the stitch exactly at the marked neckline line), press the allowances upwards. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facings and neckline facing. Fold the facing with the garment, right sides together, and stitch the front sections from the lapel to the shoulder edges and the back neckline edge. Clip the allowances at the curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
9. Stitch and press open the side seams.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and aligning the notches. Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
11. Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning the notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach the shoulder pads.
12. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing.
13. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
14. On the right front, make a buttonhole, on the left front, sew on a button. Make an inner buttonhole and sew on an inner button. Sew on a decorative button on the right front.