Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3 cm. Top edge of pocket allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece on fold
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Note: front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the lapel roll line on the front pieces, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch darts on the front pieces. Press seam allowances upwards.
- Serge the top edge of the pocket. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Press the side and bottom allowances of the pocket. Place the pocket on the front piece according to markings and topstitch. Secure the pocket and front piece at the side seam.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the center seam of the one-piece collar. Press seam allowance open. Attach the collar to the neckline, clipping allowances at the corner. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the center seam of the collar on the front facing pieces. Press seam allowance open. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the collar to the neckline of the facing, clipping allowances at the corner. Press seam allowances open.
- Place the front facing right side down onto the right side of the front piece, pin, and stitch along the front edge and collar. Clip allowances at curves, turn the front facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the neckline allowances together.
- Press the bottom edge of the vest to the wrong side.
- Stitch the lining seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Attach the lining to the bottom of the vest.
- Turn the vest right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the belt along the contour, leaving a technical opening. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press. Close the technical opening.
