Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 1.5 cm; sleeve hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part - 2 pieces
- Upper side back part - 2 pieces
- Back waistband - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Front yoke — 1 piece
- Upper center front part — 2 pieces
- Upper side front part — 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Lower front part — 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge. Attach the back waistband to the upper part, press allowances onto the waistband and serge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the bust darts on the front, press depths upwards. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the center seam of the upper front part, press allowances to the left side and serge.
- Attach the yoke to the front, press allowances upwards and serge. Attach the front waistband to the upper part, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Interface the pocket opening allowance with fusible interfacing. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the pocket opening length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the pocket opening edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Serge the middle and lower sides of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to markings on the front skirt and topstitch. Secure the upper and side edges of the pocket to the skirt edges.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces to the right side, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
