Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 3.0 cm. Slit edge allowance – 6.0 cm. Other seams – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part - 4 pieces
- Lower center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 2 pieces
- Lower center front part - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Upper side back part - 2 pieces
- Upper side front part - 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Upper center back part - 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the upper center and lower center back parts together, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Stitch the upper center and lower center front parts together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams on the center back and front parts, press seam allowances open. Stitch shoulder seams on the inner center back and front parts, press seam allowances open. Serge bottom edges.
- Fold the outer and inner parts of the center back and front pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the piece right side out, and press.
- Stitch the side seams of the garment, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the side seams of the lining, press seam allowances towards the back, serge the bottom edge. Place the lining and garment right sides together and stitch the armhole edge. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press. Secure the lining to the main garment along the relief seams and then treat as one piece.
- Stitch the relief seams of the back and front, inserting the side parts between the outer and inner center parts. Press seam allowances towards the center, serge.
- On the left back part, trim 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both back pieces, fuse interlining to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the slit corner. Clip the seam allowance corner of the slit on the right part. Press the center seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Press the hem allowance of the garment to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
