Bust-Gather Tunic

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: Medium to high stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm; hem allowance for garment and sleeve bottom – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front part - 4 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces

Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press it to the left side.
2. Stitch the center seams of the upper front parts. Along the stitching seam, lay a stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Press allowances open. Fold the outer and inner front pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn the inner part of the upper front to the wrong side and press the upper edge.
3. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the back neckline length + the length of the one-piece front yoke neckline + 4cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Fold the binding with the neckline edge, right side out, and stitch. Clip the allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
4. Stitch the upper front part and the one-piece front yoke, inserting the yoke between the outer and inner front pieces. Straighten the pieces and press.
5. Attach the lower front part to the upper, overlock allowances, press upwards.
6. Stitch the side seams, press allowances to the back and overlock.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances to the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock.
8. Overlock the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.