Sleeveless Asymmetrical Pleated Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Pleated fabric for the insert. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.5 cm. Hem allowance for the insert bottom – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are on the right side!

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper center front part – 1 piece
  • Upper side front part right - 1 piece
  • Upper side front part left - 1 piece
  • Middle front part - 1 piece
  • Lower front part - 1 piece
  • Bottom facing_1 - 1 piece
  • Bottom facing_2 - 1 piece
  • Back facing - 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 1 piece
• From main fabric 1:
  • Insert – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Bottom facing_1 - 1 piece
  • Bottom facing_2 - 1 piece
  • Back facing - 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
3. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
4. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
5. Serge the hem allowance of the insert, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Alternatively, it can be finished with a narrow rolled hem. In this case, the hem allowance should be trimmed.
6. Place bottom facing 1 with the lower front part right sides together and stitch the front edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Attach the insert to the inner edge of facing 1 (the insert edge is shorter than the facing edge by the width of the hem allowance), press allowances, and serge.
7. Place bottom facing 2 with the middle front part right sides together and stitch the bottom edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Attach the insert with the lower front part to the inner edge of facing 2 (the insert edge is shorter than the facing edge by the width of the hem allowance), press allowances, and serge.
8. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
9. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the front and back facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the back armhole, then the front armhole. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure to the main garment at the side seams and zipper tape.
11. Serge the bottom edge of the dress, stitch the bottom corners, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Also, attach the inner edges of bottom facings 1 and 2 to the main garment with blind stitches.