Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: medium to high stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: knit fusible interfacing, elastic tape 0.7 cm wide.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for garment bottom and sleeve – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
- Overlock the center front edges separately. Stitch the front pieces. Stitch with a loosened upper thread from the top to the gathering end mark along the stitching line. Gather and secure the gathering on the front, controlling the amount of gathering according to the pattern's trim line.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facing and garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch with a loosened upper thread along the sleeve cap and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock. Overlock the sleeve hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch, forming a casing. Thread elastic tape through the casing, adjust length, and secure ends.
- Overlock the garment hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
