Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: cotton blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are on the right side!
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
- Back neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From main fabric 2:
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower right front part – 1 piece
- Lower left front part – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Cut a bias strip for finishing the back slit, equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm, and 5 cm wide. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out. Mark the slit line on the back, cut it. Lay the back flat along the slit line, place the bias strip right side down, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch into the seam line.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the front neckline facing to the upper front part, press seam allowances towards the facing.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back, overcast.
- Along the upper and lower edges of the sleeve, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve to the garment, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Overcast the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the side seam of the upper part simultaneously with the sleeve seam up to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold.
- Overcast the lower edge of the upper front part.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the rouleau loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and shape the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
- Stitch shoulder seams of inner facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the neckline edge and center back edges, inserting the loop on the right side. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and topstitch into the seam line of the outer facing.
- Fold cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam line of the outer cuff.
- Stitch side seams of the lower part, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the upper and center edges. Stitch the upper and lower parts from the right side seam to the center edge of the left front part. Create a pleat from the lower part and topstitch into the attachment seam from the right side seam to the center edge of the left front part.
- Stitch the upper corner of the lower right front part, turn right side out, press. Press the upper and center edges of the lower right front part to the wrong side.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Overlap the right front part over the left, aligning the center lines, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew a button on the left facing.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out, shape and press. Topstitch the belt around the perimeter 0.1 cm from the edge.
