Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane. ALSO, YOU WILL NEED: concealed zipper; fusible interfacing; lining fabric.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for peplum lower edges – 1.5 cm; sleeve lower edge – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- Back peplum – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
- Front waistband – 1 piece on fold
- Front peplum – 1 piece on fold
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Pocket lining – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center of the pieces. Attach the back waistband to the upper back. Overlock allowance and press upwards.
- Attach back peplums to the back waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
- Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Stitch the dart of the upper front piece, press allowance towards the center. Attach the front waistband to the upper front, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Fold flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch side and lower edges. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press. Attach lining to the flap. Place the flap and lining right side down on the front waistband and stitch. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the flap. Clip allowances at the marks. Turn the flap and lining down, allowance up, and press.
- Form and secure the pleat along the upper edge of the front peplum. Place the lining on the front peplum and stitch. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Clip allowances at the marks. Turn the lining to the wrong side and press.
- Attach the front peplums to the front waistband, stitching the lining edges, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch neckline facing seams, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances, turn facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and center back seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock allowance and press towards the back. Form and secure a box pleat at the sleeve cap. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Overlock allowance and press.
- Overlock the lower edge of the peplums, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
