Short Jacket with Shoulder Tabs and Hood Tie
Introducing a versatile women's short jacket sewing pattern, defined by its comfortable raglan sleeves, functional shoulder tabs, and a detachable hood with stylish ties.
When To Wear
This stylish and practical short jacket is perfect for a range of occasions, offering both comfort and contemporary flair:
- Casual Chic Outings: Great for everyday wear, errands, or coffee dates.
- Transitional Weather: Its jacket-weight fabric makes it suitable for spring, autumn, or cool summer evenings.
- Layered Ensembles: Ideal for layering over sweaters or light tops for a complete look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a comfortable, relaxed fit with a cropped length, finishing around the hip.
Collar & Hood: Features a classic shirt collar complemented by a separate, detachable hood with ties for versatile styling.
Closure: a full button-front closure ensures practicality and ease of wear.
Sleeves: Distinctive raglan sleeves culminate in adjustable cuffs with buttoned tabs.
Pockets: Two neatly integrated welt pockets adorn the front panels.
Back: The back features a stylish yoke detail and a central inverted pleat, enhancing movement and comfort.
Shoulder Details: Functional shoulder tabs, secured with buttons, add a utility-inspired touch.
Hem: a clean, straight hemline provides a neat finish to the jacket's silhouette.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires skills in constructing welt pockets, collar with stand, raglan sleeves, and attaching various detailed elements such as shoulder tabs and a detachable hood.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight fabrics with some body to achieve the intended structure and drape:
- Dense jacket fabrics made from natural fibers (e.g., cotton twill, linen blends, suede-like fabrics)
- Dense jacket fabrics made from blended fibers (e.g., gabardine, canvas, blended twills)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Hood – 4 pieces
- Hood tie – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Shoulder tab – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Shoulder tab – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Fold and secure the inverted pleat on the back.
- Mark and interface the pocket placement with fusible interfacing. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag through the opening to the wrong side. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overlock.
- Stitch the sleeve to the back, press allowances towards the sleeve, overlock. Stitch the sleeve to the front, press allowances towards the sleeve, overlock.
- Fold the tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and short sides. Trim allowances, turn the tab right side out, press and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the sleeve seam simultaneously with the side seam, inserting the tab, press allowances and overlock.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances, turn the collar right side out and press. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the collar stand right side out and press.
- Fold the shoulder tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and short sides. Trim allowances, turn the shoulder tab right side out, press and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the collar stand into the neckline, inserting the raw edge of the shoulder tab between the pieces.
- On the right front facing, overlock buttonholes. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the front facings with the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams and press.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the left front, sew on buttons. Overlock buttonholes on the tabs, sew on buttons accordingly.
- Overlock buttonholes on the shoulder tabs. Determine the center of the shoulder tab and topstitch it to the sleeve across the shoulder. Fold the shoulder tab towards the neckline, sew on a button corresponding to the buttonhole.
- Stitch hood pieces in pairs, press allowances open. Stitch ties to the hood. Fold hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Clip allowances at curves. Turn the hood right side out, straighten, press. Stitch the opening closed. Overlock buttonholes on the hood neckline. Sew on buttons at the collar stand attachment seam.
