Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress and sleeve, along the upper edge of the pocket – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece with a fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Yoke – 1 piece
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Stitch darts on the front pieces. Press dart depths upwards.
- Place the yoke and front right sides together and stitch. Serge the allowance and press upwards. Fold the yoke upwards, smooth out the pleat, and topstitch through to the front.
- Serge the center back edge separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Serge the pockets along the contour. Press the upper pocket allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and lower allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch pockets onto the front according to markings.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the collar in half lengthwise and stitch the ends. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the outer collar to the neckline, fold under the allowance of the inner collar, and topstitch into the attaching seam. Press and serge allowances.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press and serge allowances.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
