Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Eyelet fabric with scalloped edges. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 11 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance - 2.5 cm; allowance along the bottom edge of the front insert and sleeve insert - 0 cm; other seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece with fold
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From contrast fabric:
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Sleeve insert – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Attention! When cutting the front insert and sleeve insert pieces, the bottom edge of these pieces should be positioned at some distance from the edge of the scallops for ease of topstitching.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch bust darts, press allowances upwards.
- Stitch pleats on the lower front part, folding the piece wrong sides together. Press pleats towards the center.
- Attach the front yoke to the insert, press allowances upwards and serge. Serge the upper edge of the lower front part. Lay the front insert onto the lower part, aligning the marked stitching lines and topstitch.
- Press the placket lengthwise in the middle, right side out. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold under the edge of the inner placket and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attachment. Clip allowances at curves. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
- Attach the outer part of the collar stand to the neckline, press allowances towards the collar stand. Fold under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Attach the upper sleeve part to the insert, press allowances upwards and serge. Serge the upper edge of the lower sleeve part. Lay the sleeve insert onto the lower part, aligning the marked stitching lines and topstitch.
- Serge sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge. Along the lower sleeve edge, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
- Fold the cuff lengthwise in the middle, right side out, and stitch side seams. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold under the allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Fold the bottom hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then by 1.5 cm and topstitch.
- On the right placket and collar stand, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.
