Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, concealed zipper, 3 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem and sleeve hem allowance — 2.0 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Back waistband — 1 piece
- Lower back part — 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part — 2 pieces
- Front waistband — 1 piece
- Lower front part — 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Placket — 4 pieces
- Collar stand — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket — 2 pieces
- Collar stand — 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper back piece, press allowances towards the center. Attach the back waistband to the upper part, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Form and secure pleats on the lower back piece (pleat depths directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Fold placket pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Turn pieces right side out, straighten and press. Serge buttonholes on the right placket. Attach plackets to the upper front piece, press allowances onto the front piece and serge. Along the lower edge of the upper front piece, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Overlap the right front piece over the left and secure along the lower edge. Attach the front waistband to the upper part, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Form and secure pleats on the lower front piece (pleat depths directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Clip allowances, turn the collar stand right side out, straighten and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the garment neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Serge left side edges separately, stitch from armhole to the first mark and from the second mark to the hem, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch sleeve seam, press allowances and serge. Set sleeve into armhole, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the left placket.
